Day 11 – Puerto Tranquilo to Puerto Cisnes

Saturday, January 11th

Distance – 447KM 70% gravel

Heading back north from Tranquillo was nowhere near as exciting as our trip down. The weather was great but that pushed lots of dust up in the air. We were also a lot more disciplined about keeping everyone in view at all times. We stopped at the double bus again, just for coffee this time. As, we waited around two KTM riders pulled out of the village and when the saw us pulled a quick u-turn to come and chat with us. Apparently, they had been following the same route as us and had been told of the KTM gang traveling the Carretera Austral.

It turned out to not be the charging system on on Rob’s bike, it was the battery. It had been installed without its protective boot and had rattled a hole into itself. Mac’s bike now had to be started MotoGP style.

Dead KTM 990 battery.

We ripped up the last bit of pavement back into Coihaique. Martyn led us through the streets to the hostel he’d stayed at. The plan was to “borrow” the battery from George’s bike if it would fit.

Cannibalizing George’s DR-Z

The battery had the same physical dimensions. It was just a few amps short but turned over the KTM easily enough.

Street side mechanics.

At lunch, we were joined by one of the many dogs that had chased us around the square the last time we visited. I had often heard of dogs chasing cars but never seen it before. In Chile, and Argentina, it seems to be their pastime. What is funny was how all the dogs seemed to roam around freely, running in packs but having their own homes to go back to. Something you don’t typically see in England or the US these days.

Guess who’s coming to dinner.

A couple of hours up the road, we stopped for drinks and plonked ourselves in the shade.

Looking for some shade.

While there, a German couple rode up on bikes. The had been on the road for 18 months traveling down the Panamerican highway from Alaska. The had a 2 1/2 year old in tow. She had a trailer and a seat on her Dad’s handlebars.

Traveling family.

A few KMs up the road, we turned off the Carretera Austral and head for Puerto Cisnes. This is on the same fjord as Puyuhuapi where we’d stopped at the hot springs.

Bubbling brooks and majestic mountains The road into Puerto Cisnes had some great views however, on reaching town the sign that greeted us was a little worrying.

We on had a place sorted out and the bikes parked for the night. The restaurant was closed but Martyn sweet talked the owner into opening up for us. Given it is a fishing village, that’s what’s for dinner.

Parked for the night.

Parked for the night.
I think Puerto Cisnes is the pretties place we have visited to date. It could be a Norwegian or Scottish fishing village.

Once again, we were adopted by a local dog who had us throwing sticks down the beach.

Adopt-a-biker dogs.

The boats were works of art, if you didn’t look to closely.

Chilean fishing boat.

Sunset over the fjord.

A quick nightcap on the cabaña balcony.

Drinks on the balcony.